Ubud: Palaces, temples, and streets

Ubud in Bali has a known history going back to the 8th century, and was known as a centre for healing and natural medicine: ubad is ancient Balinese for medicine. Over the centuries, monasteries and temples were established in the area, civilizations came and went. In the early 20th century, the Prince of Ubud grew more interested in the creative arts and encouraged the most skilled artists, craftsmen and dancers to come and live in the area. Foreign artists were invited to stay, and the fame of Ubud began to spread internationally.

With the growth of international travel in the 1970s, and young backpackers searching for the “real Bali”, Ubud became increasingly well-known. A certain book and film also encouraged floods of visitors seeking answers to their mid-life crises. Although Ubud has now stretched and expanded and offers many different spiritual, cultural, and artistic pursuits, and can often feel overwhelmingly full of visitors, it’s still possible to dive down a side street and see rice paddies stretching to the horizon.

Temples and palaces are everywhere in Ubud. The Royal Palace, and the beautiful Pura Taman Saraswati (Water Palace) are right in the centre of town, and are perfect for wandering round, soaking in the atmosphere.

Royal Palace

Although the royal family of Ubud, descendants of the last Raja, Tjokorda Gede Agung Sukawati (1910–1978), live in a large part of the Palace compound, much of the grounds and buildings are open for the public to visit. As the Palace is right in the centre of town, it’s well worth spending some time here.

Pura Taman Saraswati

Make arrangements with one of the many drivers in Ubud for a day trip just outside town to visit some of the many different sights. Get spiritual insights at the beautiful Tirta Empul temple, and relax your eyes with an influx of vivid greenery viewing the stunning Tegallalang rice paddies.

Beautiful views at the Tegallalang rice terraces. Worth stopping for a look.
*(Click on photos to view fullsize)*

Tirta Empul

The soaking pools at the temple of the holy springs at Pura Tirta Empul, are a beautiful, and sacred place to visit for the Balinese on special occasions. Visitors are also allowed to take a dip in the holy waters, but you’ll need to bring your own sarong, this is not a place for bikinis.

Goa Gajah: Elephant Cave

There aren’t any elephants at the Elephant Cave, or Goa Gajah, although there is a carved elephant face there. Goa Gajah is possibly the oldest archeological site in Ubud. This is a Hindu-Budhist site dating to the 10th or 11th century, with bathing pools and stone relics, all in a beautiful, lush jungle setting.

Monkey Forest

Yup, there are monkeys in this forest! Monkey Forest is an easy 10 minute walk from the centre, at the southern end of Ubud, and with tall, lush tree cover, it’s a shady, slightly cooler place to be. You’re bound to see the macaques roaming the streets before you go in to the Monkey Forest. They are very habituated to humans, and completely fearless, so be sure to keep valuables tucked away and hidden, and keep your camera or phone well-attached to you. Monkeys are very quick to snatch and grab shiny objects! There are bananas for sale if you feel like feeding the monkeys, but be aware that as soon as they spot the food, you’ll get mobbed! For your own safety, keep an eye out and keep your distance, especially from babies, if you don’t want mamma to attack you!

Monkeys apart, Monkey Forest is a lovely peaceful place to wander, enjoy the trickling of the rivers and pools, admire the temples, and relax in the shade.

In Ubud we stayed in a beautiful, quiet hotel, recommended by the ever-useful Travelfish, down a narrow, unlikely looking alley off Jalan Monkey Forest, called Ubud Lestari Bungalows.

Traditional dance

The Ubud royal family continues to support the arts, and dance performances are available almost every evening in the Royal Palace. If there’s a particular dance style or group that you’re interested in seeing, check with the Ubud Tourist Information. If you’re new to Balinese dance, almost anything will be a thrilling production! The dances are multi-layered, with many different meanings, full of grace, movement, colour, expression, humour, and of course the beautiful tones of the traditional gamelan orchestra.

One of the best resources for information on where to go and what to see throughout SE Asia is Travelfish, and they have a great article on dance and drama in Ubud.